MEMPHIS, TN --
Until it's proven to me otherwise, Memphis is good for only two things: music and ribs. Coincidentally, those who know me well know that these happen to be two of my absolute favorite things in life. Memphis is lacking with some of the basic quality of life measurements, such as murder rate, but a city that's built on solid cooking and revolutionary music will always be OK with me.
A few weeks back, I ventured to Memphis in search of these two staples. Thanks to a recommendation from fellow blogger, Keefe Miller, I was steered in the direction of Charles Vergos' Rendezvous . It certainly is on the tourist track, but everything's an adventure in Memphis, including ducking into Rendezvous' back alley entrance past the panhandlers looking to 'help' tourists gone astray. The ribs were as advertised, with the classic dry-rub style that differs from the style of ribs that most of us are used to. The ribs are smoked and seasoned, but are not cooked with abundant liquids so the smoky seasoned flavor of the rub shows through in the ribs. The brisket, chicken, pulled pork and slaw were all solid as well, while the sweet tea was only average although I've been spoiled by South Carolina sweet tea for all these years. All in all, make a stop at the Rendezvous if you ever make it to Memphis. Everyone in town can point you in the right direction.
With a full belly of a variety of different animals, we descended upon Beale Street in search of music. Beale Street is the most famous area for music, drinking, and general debauchery, and has been since the rise of Memphis-style blues. After a few disappointing stops at your more-standard watering holes, I was able to tap in to some Mississippi Delta blues before the night closed.
Memphis Blues has a long tradition on Beale Street going back to artists in the early 1900's such as WC Handy, Howlin Wolf, Ike Turner, and BB King. This musical style originated from the fields, evolved to meidicine shows and vaudeville performances, got plugged in along with other musical styles with the rise of the electrical musical instrument (electronica??), and continues to flourish to this day.
Two selections for your review:
Howlin' Wolf discussing his take on the blues and a performance from the 1960's.
BB King teaching the world about Tennessee and the blues overseas.
Finally, a brief video about WC Handy about being the 'Father of the Blues'
If you ever get down this way, make sure to make a stop at Rendezvous for the ribs and enjoy a Jack on the rocks out in the street with the blues coming through the window. That's what Memphis is all about ...
Robert Johnson is the King of the Delta Blues.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd60nI4sa9A&feature=PlayList&p=6B19BF02E9ACA4D3&index=0&playnext=1
All of his work was recorded in 1936 and 1937. Ridiculous. Johnson was ahead of his time in a way that only Woody Guthrie and maybe Hank Williams were.